Alexandria, Egypt — Every empire passed through. Some stayed.Alexandria, Egypt — Every empire passed through. Some stayed.Alexandria, Egypt — Every empire passed through. Some stayed.Alexandria, Egypt — Every empire passed through. Some stayed.

Destination · Egypt

Alexandria, Egypt

Every empire passed through. Some stayed.

A Mediterranean city that has been losing its great institutions for two thousand years and somehow never stops producing new ones.

12 chapters ahead

Climate

Mediterranean and salt-heavy — cooler and grayer than Cairo, with a winter that actually earns the name and a summer that draws half of Egypt to its shores.

Best season

November through February: the crowds have gone, the sea turns serious, and the city belongs to itself again.

Atmosphere

  • coastal
  • urban-dense
  • old-world
  • colonial-layered
  • cosmopolitan
  • literary
  • culinary
  • maritime
  • walkable
  • intense

The chapters

12 ways to get lost here

Alexandria Bibliotheca Alexandrina exterior

Chapter 01

The library burned. The city kept reading.

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Alexandria grilled fish market

Chapter 02

Five civilizations left their kitchens here.

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Alexandria Corniche winter overcast

Chapter 03

Winter belongs to the Corniche.

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Alexandria old European quarter facade

Chapter 04

The Greeks are gone. Their cafes remain.

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Alexandria Corniche evening waterfront

Chapter 05

The sea wall is the real living room.

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Alexandria pastry shop display

Chapter 06

Salt air does something to the pastry here.

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Abu Mena ancient ruins desert

Chapter 07

Abu Mena draws pilgrims across the desert.

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Alexandria old apartment building facade

Chapter 08

The apartment blocks remember who they were built for.

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Alexandria tram street scene

Chapter 09

The tram runs on borrowed time, still running.

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Rosetta Egypt Ottoman house mashrabiya

Chapter 10

The Delta hides in plain sight.

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Alexandria old quarter street scene

Chapter 11

Thessaloniki was built on the same blueprint.

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Alexandria busy market street

Chapter 12

The cosmopolitan city is a story it tells itself.

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Keep wandering

You’ve finished Alexandria. Where next?

Pull a thread at random, fall into the world map, or step back to the front door for the latest dispatches.

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