Chicago, United States — The city that never stopped arguingChicago, United States — The city that never stopped arguingChicago, United States — The city that never stopped arguingChicago, United States — The city that never stopped arguing

Destination · United States

Chicago, United States

The city that never stopped arguing

Chicago built itself twice, wrote its own rules, and has been loudly disagreeing with itself about what it is ever since.

11 chapters ahead

Climate

Four seasons with conviction — summers that earn their reputation and winters that will test yours

Best season

Late September through October: the lake is still warm enough to swim, the crowds are gone, and the light on the buildings is worth the trip alone

Atmosphere

  • urban-dense
  • cosmopolitan
  • post-industrial
  • culinary
  • artsy
  • literary
  • modernist
  • nocturnal
  • walkable
  • intense
  • northern

The chapters

11 ways to get lost here

Chicago river architecture skyline

Chapter 01

The architecture walks itself

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Chicago tavern style pizza

Chapter 02

Deep dish is a trap. Keep eating.

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Chicago winter lakefront snow

Chapter 03

Winter is the membership test

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Chicago blues club stage

Chapter 04

The blues came north and kept moving

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Chicago lakefront morning light

Chapter 05

The lake is not a backdrop

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Chicago neighborhood mural street

Chapter 06

Neighborhoods that don't need the Loop

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Chicago Art Institute facade columns

Chapter 07

The Art Institute earns its reputation

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Chicago elevated train night rain

Chapter 08

The city Dreiser and Algren refused to prettify

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Chicago comedy club stage lights

Chapter 09

Second City built the comedy America watches

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Chicago City Hall exterior

Chapter 10

The machine broke. The machine persists.

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Gary Indiana abandoned building facade

Chapter 11

Gary still has the bones

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Keep wandering

You’ve finished Chicago. Where next?

Pull a thread at random, fall into the world map, or step back to the front door for the latest dispatches.

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