Chapter 01
The rolex changed everything
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Destination · Uganda
Kampala, Uganda
Loud, warm, and moving fast
A city of seven hills and several hundred white minibuses that runs on chapati, Luganda greetings, and music that starts at midnight.
12 chapters ahead
Climate
Equatorial but not punishing — two rainy seasons break the heat, and the hills catch a breeze that the valleys don't.
Best season
June through August: the long dry season, when the red dirt roads hold and Nyege Nyege is close enough to plan around.
Atmosphere
- tropical
- urban-dense
- cosmopolitan
- nocturnal
- culinary
- intense
- lush
- sprawling
The chapters
12 ways to get lost here
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Chapter 02
Seven hills, no flat route anywhere
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Chapter 03
The taxi park is the real city center
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Chapter 04
The source is two hours east
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Chapter 05
Nobody stays a stranger past noon
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Chapter 06
Rain arrives, the city reorganizes
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Chapter 07
Matoke is not a side dish
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Chapter 08
The nightlife starts when you'd expect sleep
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Chapter 09
The Nyege Nyege problem is getting there
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Chapter 10
The new Kampala is building on top
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Chapter 11
Lagos shares the frequency, not the volume
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Chapter 12
The welcome has a legal asterisk
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Keep wandering
You’ve finished Kampala. Where next?
Pull a thread at random, fall into the world map, or step back to the front door for the latest dispatches.