Chapter 01

Destination · Mexico
La Paz, Mexico
The sea decided everything here
A pearl-diving port turned accidental city, where the Sea of Cortez still sets the pace and nobody has gotten around to performing for visitors.
Climate
Bone-dry desert heat from June through September, then eight months of near-perfect warm days and cool evenings that feel like a reward for knowing when to come.
Best season
October through April — the heat has broken, the water is clear, and the whale sharks arrive in the bay without much fanfare.
Atmosphere
- coastal
- desert
- maritime
- small-town
- urban-midsize
- arid
- rugged
- culinary
- sleepy
- early-rising
- walkable
- remote
The chapters
11 ways to get lost here
Tap any chapter to read
Chapter 02
Nobody rushes. That's the contract.
Chapter 03
Baja Sur is the desert that reaches water

Chapter 04
A city that didn't plan on you
Chapter 05
Sleep near the water. Wake with the fishermen.

Chapter 06
Getting here is part of the argument
Chapter 07
The murals arrived before the tourists did

Chapter 08
Three days of floats, noise, and very good tacos
Chapter 09
The desert teaches you to move at dawn
Chapter 10
What the expats found that the tourists missed
Chapter 11
La Paz and Palawan found the same problem
Keep wandering
You’ve finished La Paz. Where next?
Pull a thread at random, fall into the world map, or step back to the front door for the latest dispatches.