Chapter 01
The city that taught Lagos humility
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Destination · Nigeria
Ibadan, Nigeria
The old city that never performed
Ibadan was sub-Saharan Africa's largest city before Lagos learned to shout, and it still doesn't need to raise its voice.
10 chapters ahead
Climate
Hot and humid most of the year, with a rainy season that turns the red-earth streets briefly cool and the gutters loud
Best season
November through February — the harmattan dries the air and drops the temperature to something that feels almost forgiving
Atmosphere
- urban-dense
- tropical
- old-world
- colonial-layered
- spiritual
- culinary
- literary
- intense
- sprawling
- nocturnal
The chapters
10 ways to get lost here
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Chapter 02
Amala is a loyalty test
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Chapter 03
The market that swallowed a neighborhood
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Chapter 04
Cocoa House still stands tallest
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Chapter 05
The night belongs to something older
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Chapter 06
Art made for use, not gallery walls
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Chapter 07
Where Nigeria's first arguments happened
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Chapter 08
The Oyo Eid that stops a kingdom
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Chapter 09
Osun-Osogbo: where the river is still sacred
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Chapter 10
Ibadan and Kano: two Nigerias, one country
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Keep wandering
You’ve finished Ibadan. Where next?
Pull a thread at random, fall into the world map, or step back to the front door for the latest dispatches.