Chapter 01
The city that eats standing up
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Destination · Japan
Osaka, Japan
The city that eats until it falls
Osaka runs louder, later, and hungrier than anywhere else in Japan, and has never once apologized for it.
12 chapters ahead
Climate
Hot and humid in summer, mild in spring and autumn, cold enough in January to make the ramen taste better
Best season
October and November — the heat breaks, the crowds thin slightly, and the city is fully itself without the summer sweat
Atmosphere
- urban-dense
- cosmopolitan
- nocturnal
- culinary
- artsy
- walkable
- intense
- old-world
- modernist
The chapters
12 ways to get lost here
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Chapter 02
Namba after the last train leaves
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Chapter 03
Shinsekai never got the memo
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Chapter 04
Concrete castle, living city
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Chapter 05
The city that built itself to move
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Chapter 06
Osaka's comedy is not a performance
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Chapter 07
The blues the city doesn't advertise
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Chapter 08
Manga, concrete, and the space between
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Chapter 09
Tenjin Matsuri fills the river
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Chapter 10
Buy the knife. It will outlive you.
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Chapter 11
Kyoto is forty minutes and four centuries away
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Chapter 12
Hong Kong runs on the same nerve
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Keep wandering
You’ve finished Osaka. Where next?
Pull a thread at random, fall into the world map, or step back to the front door for the latest dispatches.